so instead of trying to draw out that tricky inner curve, i just turned a shoulder in some round stock and drilled a hole into the main body that i forged and rounded off the head. it holds really well. i dont think the shank coming loose will be a problem because the head of the round stock is where i hit it to jam it in the dog hole. i also tapered the hold a bit with a steep countersink.

Pipe +Plate + Sand + 3/4" all thread + Crappy Dual Shield Welds = This Stand. Design based on Haley Woodward's anvil stands.

Forged the bolt into the claw hammer head shape, punched a hole into it, put the metal handle and then welded them together, its basic but I like it!

This is my first gas forge build and I'm looking for some advice about the flame pouring out the door. Am I right in saying its running too rich? would a smaller jet solve this issue or am I missing something else ? (Haven't fitted the burner until its running sweet)

I need opinions on 5160 for heavy hunting use in southern Alberta mountains will this be a fantastic companion or should I stay with stainless

I plan to use it to make punches, drifts and chisels, how should I heat treat it? Should I quench it in water or oil? How long should I temper it for at what temperature?

I was watching The Gunsmith of Williamsburg for the umpteenth time and at 2:03 in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UO4bV36GkWw, it appears that he starts swaging the barrel cold. From other research, I believe Gussler uses wrought iron instead of mild steel for his barrels after finding that mild steel didn't work as nicely. That said, this is a pretty thick piece of stock and I am surprised that working it cold wouldn't cause it to crack. Additionally, the steel is clearly heated as they close up the seam. This was video is an official release and while the original film doesn't show the true color of the steel (cameras never do), it really does look cold. What do you think?

Additionally, the skelp is bent up into a tube lengthwise which would mean the wrought iron grain would run lengthwise which would be weaker, would it not? Is it sufficiently thick enough to overcome that?

I need a knife, something like this, but with an actual handle. Nothing fancy, a single piece of metal would be best, no leather, no wood, just a solid chunk of metal with a gap between handle and blade to stop your hand sliding forward. Needs to be a little crude, hence the offer to beginners.

I own an Asian restaurant and need to replace some of the mortar inside the side walls of my commercial wok burner chambers, surrounding the flames. I have custom cement chamber wok ranges designed for indoor use, with the following burner openings including two 22 inch diameter openings, two 30 inch diameter openings, one 38 inch diameter opening

I'm looking to purchase approximately 2 – 5 lbs of high-heat refractory mortar suitable for operating temperatures around 800°F – 1,200°F. I need something durable that can withstand regular commercial restaurant use and repeated heating and cooling without cracking or falling apart.

Are there any reputable online stores that sell suitable refractory mortar in small or bulk quantities?Are there any physical store suppliers that carry this type of material? Which brands or specific products would you recommend for a commercial gas wok burner chamber? Should I use refractory mortar, furnace cement, or a castable refractory material for repairing the side walls around the flames?

Anyone know where to find fire clay? Or make it, I just got an open forge and feel just using fire brick isnt the answer

Belt grinders are so goddamn expensive so I wanted to ask, how’s this?