My partners car Speedo just started doing this thing where it’s a little jumpy but yesterday it went a lot worse. It went from just only jumping back and forth by like 2km to now you can even tell if it’s on 90km or 120km. It only does it sometimes too. It did it for about half of the drive and mainly on the highway. It is an automatic Toyota Corolla 110Ser (not sure of year) and its odometer is 472770.

Hi everyone, thank you in advance for your time. Bought my Mitsubishi outlander in 2007 new. Nearly 20 years later I have started proactively changing everything rubber. Suspension, Brake lines, brakes, belts, seals, coolant hoses, atf hoses, radiator, ac radiator, etc. I want my girl to last another 20 if possible. Question is here. For many parts like suspension boots, they were cracked open, obviously rotten, ready to change. While I already replaced these brake lines they seem into me to be in great condition. Did I waste money changing these out or is this a case of, bro it's been 20, just do it. ?

Today I noticed my bed was sitting a little funky and upon further inspection I saw this crack in the frame where the bed meets the cab. I’m taking it to a shop Monday for inspection and to get an estimate on repairs. Then I noticed another crack towards the front passenger tire and decided to take pictures of my whole frame for a second opinion. Tell me what you guys think, is she at the end of her days or does she still have more fight in her?

F.Y.I - 1998 Chevy 1500, 184k miles, automatic

Working on a 2009 Mazda 3 2.0l

Doing rear control arms, lateral links and swaybar plus links.

I bumped into this problem much like how the front control arm bushing bolt hits the ac compressor, the rear lateral bolt hits the gas tank. Anyone done this before? Am I going to be able to remove this? Or am I looking at having to deal with moving the tank itself?

On every car that I‘ve changed to stainless steel braided brake hoses, no matter how much I bleed the brakes, the pedal feels spongier than before changing the original rubber brake hoses. So I know there is air in the system. I would go thru 2 quarts of brake fluid and the pedal still feels spongy.

Here is the method I use, maybe someone can tell me what I’m doing wrong:
1. I pressure bleed with a Motive pressure bleeder and a Power Probe adapter cap at 10 psi. I don’t put brake fluid in the pressure bleeder, I just use it dry to pressurize the brake system. I always make sure the master cylinder reservoir never runs empty.
2. I bleed each corner as I change each hose to get rid of the initial air.
3. Then I re-bleed all 4 corners starting furthest from the master cylinder.

For the next car that I change to SST braided brake hoses, I want to make sure I don’t have the same problem.

Bought this 2014 gmc sierra 1500 back in February. And im realizing its only getting WAY worse as time goes on. I hardly have anywhere sturdy enough to jack up from on the frame. If I get it plated, will it even be worth it? Still owe 8k on the truck. Ideally id like to have it for another 3 or 4 years at least.

. Mechanic who helped with previous job said it sounded like low compression. Sorry for the text wall, just getting all the context for anyone kind enough to share advice

Hey guys, I’ve been looking for a digital torque wrench and the tool truck ones are just out of my budget. I was wondering if anyone has any advice of a budget friendly wrench that actually works and you can trust.

I been asking google for like 5 hours now to help me identify this part on my 2011 camry 4 cylinder.
I'm not sure it's giving me the right thing I need.
This is behind the driver side wheel.
Can someone please confirm for me if this is the hydraulic Engine Mount Anchor 9884.
Google says it's "2011 camry hydraulic Engine Mount Anchor 9884"

Looking for advice on this noise coming from my 2011 g37x. Has 141,000 miles. This video is about 3 months old and I got it checked out when I first heard the noise. Shop told me there wasn’t any issue from what they could see, they also reassured me the belt wasn’t the issue and is in good condition. Since then especially with it getting cold the sound has gotten more severe when I accelerate and turn, sometimes braking too. Does anyone have any advice on what this could be before I take it back to the shop?

i just did a timing belt change today on my 1989 bmw 325i, first time doing it, took the radiator out, replaced cam shaft seal, did the water pump, thermostat, timing belt, accessory belts. checked timing, put everything back together, started it up an hour ago, and it sounds like this… i don’t think this is how it sounded before, or at least not nearly as loud. what do you all think?

Hi!

I work for an Italian bodybuilder and we're using a lot of EU trucks (MB,Man,Volvo,Iveco and so on) ; on Mercedes frame there're bolts like that one below.

How it's called and how can I find a tool for tightening it?

I need it for a tech proposal to my r&d dept.

I supposed that this nut type it's used to lock the screw and tightening the nut on the same (external) side of the truck.

Thank you!

So me and a friend tried to figure out why the abs lamp was on so we took away the rear tires and brakes to see that one brake caliper had the abs cable plugged in but on the other side the cable was just missing.

We could not find it anywhere. Should I try to pull a new wire or is there any other way maybe?

AUDI A6 C6 2006 2.0TFSI

can anyone please help me out, I hit a curb last month pretty bad and popped both my left tires and damaged my rims. So i got new rims and tires and now my car is stuttering to start and it’s getting worse this morning it wouldn’t start at all and the starter kept stuttering , before I get upcharged at a mechanic can someone help me understand what to look for and what to ask? 2020 camry and also I keep getting a low oil sign.

My friend sent me this photo of his 2019 hyundai kona auto with 110000 miles, i think it is an AC condensation hose but not positive. Can be just park up on a curb and fix it himself or is this something for the shop?

Hi yall, I recently did a major repair on my car, 2007 Subaru Forester (150k miles, automatic) before moving four hours away to college. I got all four of my tires replaced as well as two rear wheel bearings that went bad. I took it to a well reputable shop I trusted that has never really done me bad. The left bearing had been making a rattling noise for a long time, and the right one was just bad so I decided to get the car fixed. However, upon moving, I noticed my car tends to vibrate at higher speeds (65+ mph) as well as the steering wheel. I have not really driven the car since being in school, however more recently when I drove it yesterday, I noticed one of my rear wheel bearings started to rattle at lower speeds (25mph).

I got the repair done 2 days before driving up to college. My guess is it may be a tire balancing issue, but I’m not sure about the bearing part. The car has no issues outside of this. I’m no car expert though

What should I do? I am honestly kind of broke right now and I’m concerned this is something bad. Should I be worried about this?

**when i'm on my way home last night, when i'm near theres a ticking sound and when i open the hood i think its the pan belt but idk if its the panbelt tho or its the piston. can u guys give me an idea what makes the ticking**