If you push the safety into the bolt handle while the bolt is back, you can move the whole unit forward. If you rotate the bolt down it will lock itself in the configuration in the photo. While like this, the bolt cannot move up or down. Is this appropriate? It feels safer to have like this as the gun is on "safe" while not being in battery. The other way I've seen them stored is having the bolt fully down (in battery) with the safety engaged. Is this "bolt half down" intentional?

Picked up this later series production type 38 and am having an issue with the safety. When trying to engage the safety knob, it will turn about 1 mm and then feel like it is hitting a wall. The safety is pushed forward all the way and yet that is as far as it will turn. It is the correct bolt for this rifle as I’ve compared it to my type 99 bolt. In the video I have shown that the bolt is put together correctly based on multiple videos I have seen. Any help in advice on what to do in order to get the safety to engage would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Is this a Mauser rifle produced under contract in Japan? Moreso what sort of markings can I expect so see on one, like would it have the typical Arisaka arsenal marks somewhere?

Please forgive my ignorance, I wasn't aware of these until very recently.

Seems like I'm regularly seeing them $500+ no matter the condition. The trainers are $300+ despite not even really being functioning firearms.

Is it more of a scarcity thing nowadays? Arisakas don't really have common ammo and at least used to be more common in United States. Honestly they should be one of the cheaper ww2 milsurps like the Carcanos ($200-$300 range).

Picked this up in a lot with some other guns for a steal, but dont know where to start looking for info on it since it has almost no markings to go off of. Any insight where to start would be appreciated

It has a rifled barrel and the locking lugs are in tact so hopefully its not a training rifle

I'm sure most of you have seen these - but for the new guys they are informative and interesting.

https://type99arisakas.weebly.com/

https://oldmilitarymarkings.com/japanese_markings.html

https://www.risingsunhistory.com/post/arisaka-rifle-markings-a-field-guide-to-arsenals-series-numbers

I saw a few on this sub, so here is my Nagoya Type 38 in 8mm. I picked it up a couple years ago for $300 at a local pawn shop. I am definitely interested in learning all I can about these unique rifles.

I love my Japanese surplus and of course want a Nambu in my collection, so I noticed when this one came in as a consignment for $1,099.99.

1944 and comes with one mag and a holster that has to be a reproduction. Is whoever put this on consignment trying to get more out of it? Thanks

I was doing a bit of reading on proof marks for Arisakas, and noticed a couple of pre-1923 proof marks on it. I was originally told it was made in 1933 but I don’t suspect that to be the case anymore. Could someone who is a bit more knowledgeable about these tell me when approximately my rifle was made? My other Type 38 (Kokura carbine) doesn’t have these proof marks or this teardrop looking safety my long rifle has. Thanks!

Hello everyone!

I’m very new to guns, but I wanted to get some advice on what I should do about a type 44 I found in my grandpa’s old home office awhile back

I only know that it was purchased by him years ago and given to my dad a long time ago too, and from what I can see it’s just missing its dust cover and cleaning rods. It still has the Japanese seal and bayonet, and besides a thin crack at the rifle butt, jammed bayonet release, minor rust on the surface, and a finicky safety knob, it is still mechanically sound

Any tips on cleaning the barrel since it’s caked in grime? How do I unjam the bayonet? Anything I should do about the rifle butt crack, or the surface rust? How do i clean off the grime and filth on the wood and metal without damaging it, how do i lubreacte it, and how often could I use it to shoot once it’s safe? Should I source the cover and/or cleaning rods, and if so should I hunt for an original or find replacements Any other quirks and tips I should know for this gun? Anything helps!

MODS: If this is inapproprate ,pls delete. I will post to /Bayonets, but thought maybe some folks here would have a better idea of this. I have a Nagoya Type 30 that appears to show Series いい which I believe is Series 49. But as the photos show, this blade only shows the Nagoya mark and no subcontractor. I don't have a copy of Raymond C. LaBar's book, but I can find no reference to a Nagoya-only Series 49. What am I missing?

I bought this today and it was labeled as a Type 38. I tried finding stuff out about it and saw that it's marked "Type 44". But it doesn't look like a Type 44.

Does anyone have any information on why a Type 38 is stamped 44? Or any information or quirks on the gun that you can see? This is my first gun and I bought it spur of the moment so I'd love to learn about it

Link to previous thread - Cleaning rod identification help : r/Arisaka

Here is a better picture. As previously asked, I'm trying to determine if I have a legit cleaning rod, but mismatched? Or, do I have a full length cleaning rod that someone cut down?

TLDR: non matching rifle does weird stuff with brass, considering a chamber cast or finding a headspace gauge.

I have a rifle that came with a broken off bolt handle, I got a new bolt body and everything seemed to work fine after swapping parts over (cycling, dry fire, safety, etc).

But at the range I was met with two light strikes (See photo #2, also the unfired round on the right). I pulled that one out and tried a different round which went off first try, but the case expanded and locked the bolt up bad enough to where I needed a mallet; i believe this may be how the previous bolt was broken. Looking at the brass I'm worried about the chamber being deformed. Any advice is appreciated! (Edit: shell in the middle is for reference, it is the same norma ammo just fired from a friend's type 99)

Sorry for the crappy picture, but can someone help me with Arisaka cleaning rod identification?

It's short (non-threaded).

From my research I believe it's a Series 31 Toyo Kogyo Type 99. However, those should have full length cleaning rods?

The rod channel in the stock is full length. I'm trying to determine the following:

Do I have a legit cleaning rod, but mismatched? Or, do I have a full length cleaning rod that someone cut down?

It's numbers matching with all the "extras" (monopod, sling, dust cover, AA sights, etc.) so I think there is a bit of value there, but the cleaning rod can add even more value.

I have what I believe is an Arisaka 38 that was brought back from Japan after WWII. Still has the flower, original parts, finish and seems to be in decent condition.

Immediate issues I see are
1. The splitting wood on the stock
2. Lack of a barrel cleaner

I was considering getting it restored into working order while keeping it as original as I can (by a professional).

What are these things worth? Is it worth restoring? Anything I should know about this firearm?

Hello guys,
I need help getting a value for my type 99, Im considering putting it on the market to fund some projects. I have a bayonet and have shot around 60 rds through it. Im not trying to sell it here just trying to see what you guys would say its worth! Thanks

I recently picked up a Type 99 last ditch Arisaka at a local auction, and while it’s in pretty good condition overall with an excellent bore, it’s missing a few parts. It was missing the magazine box, a trigger guard screw, and the wood buttplate.

The magazine box and screw is fairly easy to find online, but the buttplate and nails seem to be unobtanium. Does anyone know of a good source for these? Thanks in advance!

Had this type 38 carbine for a year now. It's one of the guns Japan sold to Britain that ended up in Finland by way of Russian. Has a British rack number, and some kind of personal marking on the right finger groove. Pleasant little rifle, soft shooting, and rather light.

I shot my Type 99 Arisaka for the first time and I only shot it twice and both time the casing did not eject and there was scoring and some bulging in the casing where the bullet sits what is causing this? I had it checked out and was told it’s still chambered in 7.7