Anyone work on wolf ranges?

Im a small town tech but haven't yet had the opportunity. But one may come up soon.

Any tips/tricks/common faults you more experienced guys could recommend for me?

I'm authorized Samsung/Dacor as well as recently got added onto Bosch/thermador as well, so I've seen a few similar but not many.

Thanks!

If you push any other buttons, the led light will flash above them.

If you push normal it will also beep once to indicate selection

If you push speed 60 it will flash AND beep, but the light then goes out

The normal light is solid, and as you push other buttons, it does NOT turn off

If you push start it beeps and the cycle starts

If you push power it does the 3 beeps of different frequency and turns on or off depending on which one you’re asking for

If you hold the power button for reset, it will illuminate all LEDs for 60 seconds and reset

Nothing changes

I suspect control no card here but looking for guidance

Anybody else having troubles with this?

Someone called sharp about an out of warranty repair and they gave him my number.

I'm on the lakefront so it's a little far for me. I'd normally charge $149 but I told him $199 because of the drive.

It just needs a control panel on an over the range microwave. Super easy job.

The part is $50+shipping at encompass

As title suggests. We always try to use OEM when possible but occasionally the OEM part is either no longer made or is prohibitively expensive to the point of making it impossible to sell the repair. (I.E $150-300 dryer parts). I see this often on OEM Samsung / LG stuff. Now in the past I have installed Amazon stuff, when I first started out and many times ended up having to replace under a callback with the OEM anyways. This was years ago but also every callback I had was electric parts not strictly mechanical (like lock switches and whatnot). I have talked with some techs and it seems pretty common in my area that they use Amazon parts. Also by aftermarket not talking about Supco or choice stuff as I consider those as nearly equivalent to OEM.

Example would be something like a washer door boot, with some LG xxl models there are door boots that are like $290-310 OEM wholesale and you can get aftermarket for $50-60 on amazon. Other examples suspension rods when it’s the rod and not the damper kits. Dryer elements another example depending on the model can be super pricey. Those that buy on Amazon how do you decide what to buy and what needs to be OEM to prevent callback? I have bought stuff before that had 5* reviews and was total junk

Need help on a KitchenAid combo oven (Model: KOCE900HSS02). Initial complaint from the customer was that the display panel was completely dead. It had happened before so they just reset at the breaker and that fixed it, but that wasn't working this time. We replaced the control board (part W11294388) to find out the console was also bad, so we replaced that (W11396218). The customer was advised of this possibility and was willing to take the risk. So now the display does come on BUT it's not working. Customer can't use either the microwave or the lower oven. It just has the error message: error code f6e9: oven acu 2 - lost communication contact. We tried re-programming by searching for the correct model model thinking it just couldn't "find" the microwave bc it was searching for the second oven. But still not working.

I included the pics of what's on the display screen after replacing the board and the console. Do we need to replace the other board, the one on the side? Or are we missing something in how to reprogram the new board and console to connect to each other?

I think there's a service bulletin on this but we can't find it. Any help would be appreciated!

Unit needed a new Pcb but when I powered it up it blue a resistor what should I check. Never seen this issue before

Hey all. I need a multimeter thermocouple that is not a complete sack of shit. I have a Klien CL 390. Thanks so much

Small town tech, but a few people of the big Frigidaire fridges, the rich area has lots of Bosch that aren’t dishwashers, lots of thermador fridges, etc

We’ve always said “hey sorry we don’t work on those”

But today a good acquaintance I had to go see asked if I worked on them, as a joke, because last time I said “no sorry, there’s only one guy in town that does” blah blah blah

So this time around he says it as a joke and goes “no I know just teasing, but you know, it cost me $1700 to change a filter in my fridge, and I paid it because I’m handcuffed to the fridge and he’s the only one”

And it got me thinking, a) are they really that different?

B) is it worth it considering the only people that would have those are the snoots, which come with their own hassles

C) are the parts that much more at cost, and do the jobs take that long, or is it just a case of “rich people pay rich prices”?

TIA

Hey guys,

Working on a customer's dryer, model GTD42EAMJ1WW

The dryer runs continuously on Optimum dry.

On timed dry, or less dry etc, it runs fine and shirs itself off. Can even hear the click of the cycling thermostat going on off.

However, on Optimum, it just stays running forever. I can't hear the thermostat click and the timer doesn't move.

The dryer does not have moisture sensors, the exhaust has good flow, I took it apart and tested the fuses, heater and thermostats on heater and blower, they all seem good. The two smaller wires on the thermostats on both the heater and blower housing show 9k ohms.

Motor seems good, nothing else seems out of the ordinary, apart from a cracked timer knob.

Any ideas?

Hey folks. Anyone got an idea on how to get a Service Central account?

It’s a newer washing machine. Any of you run into this? Is it just the lid lock or is it the board, other? TIA

How are these parts supposed to be compatible subover parts?

Everywhere for this product Model No. LFC23760ST I see 6749C-0014E listed as a replacement part for the original part which is 513604032

The original part is a combination relay/overload with a mount for a capacitor like you'd see on other embraco compressors, but the supposed sub part is a separate relay with no overload and no way to install the capacitor without totally rewiring everything

Anyone have any experience with this. Or is it just bad parts cataloguing

I’ve been working on appliances for over 10 years and I’m moving to SoCal. A friend of mine has a connection with a local shop and got me an interview on Monday, so I was wondering what the average wage is or what should I expect.

Normally the ice ball is a give away of a sealed system issue but the full frost pattern/ over frost has me second guessing. Evap fan and heater work, defrost thermostat closed. Whirlpool GB2FHIDXWQ05

Hey guys,

I've paid for a subscription from this website. It's been down for a week? Anyone know what's going on?

Everytime I try it just says 'your connection is not private'

Electroluxservicetips.com

Here's a butter knife and a butcher knife I pulled out of a Samsung dryer blower wheel.

What's up team? Curious how others feel as all tools are a personal choice. Ive always used a fluke 117 and a separate clamp on with temp probe just because I already owned them when I got into the trade. However as my neck and shoulders age Im trying to minimize daily carry and downsize the bag. Ive tried a coworkers UEI which I dont really like. Maybe its just getting used to it. Looking at a smaller Fieldpiece clamp on with temp probe seems nice and does what we need. Going to carry my buddy's UEI the rest of the week to see if I like it any better. I don't mind spending money on tools. Cheers. May all of your calls today be customer ed and turning the icemaker on.

Edit: good chat lads. I picked up a fieldpiece 440. Its not low impedance but I've a stray voltage adapter if I think i need it. Might still run the UEI for a few more days. Happy to share thoughts after a while if anyone is interested. Here's to a No Add On Friday.

I have 2 whirlpool dishwashers in the same building

Both no heat

Element has continuity

Thermal fuse has continuity

Neither are showing 120v, both showing like 14-30 volts when heater is selected to be turned on

This tells me control not sending voltage to element?

Anything else? Find it odd that it’s 2 suites in the same building same floor same model

I currently work for a manufacturer but want to start running my own calls on the side. however its been years since i touch any other brand and was looking to use msa to learn a few things. Do you need a registered company to sign up? and do y'all recommend msa?

Had to step back. Looked around my feet and looked to make sure my bag was good. First one I’ve seen in years. Haven’t seen anything like this from this property management company before but thinking of cutting ties after this. The 10 that were walking around started to try and hide before I took the pic

What are yalls solutions in the workplace to keep yourself from running to a grave?

Im 31 now. Trying to manage four issues all connected with each other, and its been beating down hard on me. Its gotten to a point where Ive had to go see a doctor and medically be excused for a week to relax and calm myself back down.

Is this field just prone to stress and bad health choices? What are some things yall are doing?

Ive been tryint to manage IBS, high BP, and high anxiety, and its about to cost me a job.