I used Wenge, yellowheart, Maple, Aspen, cherry, Mahogany. The green in the kitty's eyes is a Maple stained Green and the red dress is cherry stained red. Approximqtely 12" x 7". Pattern is by Chipilwood on Etsy. I modified the pattern to have the kitty overlap the dress more to provide better structural integrity, removed the pumpkin from the pattern, and added a face. Super fun pattern to work on!

https://youtu.be/fyn6NNb9K0E?is=oceuE-_2b2p2jgau

Artisan Pirate Custom Name Plate

I make these and give these out to special people and companies in my life, I felt it was time I actually made one for myself

Made from a block of 1 1/2 inch tupelo my buddy Brad at Foredom Electric Co. gave me, I used my cardboard templates we made and traced out my name on the block and took the piece to my CRAFTSMAN drill press and drilled the pilot holes so I could sit at my Rikon scroll saw and cut it out with number 5 Ultra Reverse Tooth Blades

It took around 45 minutes to cut out and after it was done, It went through several phases of sanding with Klingspor's Woodworking Shop sandpaper

The templates are from the old Creative Woodworks And Crafts Magazines however, the stand made from 1/4 inch material is a Steve Good Design

I think it came out great and it's buttery smooth!

Swipe to see all pics!

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#ArtisanPirate #scrollsaw #woodworking #woodwork #teacher

My Set Up For My Demos On My Rikon Scroll Saw at the Klingspor's Woodworking Shop Woodworking Extravaganza Next Friday and Saturday

My saw will be stationed at the North Carolina Woodworker booth and I have modified the set up to suit my needs.

As always, I've elevated the back so the saw is on an angle to reduce neck and shoulder strain

I've added a bar at the bottom for a foot rest and to elevate the foot switch to a more comfortable level.

I've had the same set up like this for around a week and it's very comfortable and I can sit for hours with little to no fatigue

Just sharing these photos in case it helps other scrollers

Swipe to see all pics!

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I had purchased Foton pearled candle supplies but lacked a bowl with character to put it in so I made this one. I took a bowl design I had printed years ago (I do not recall the designer) and then used 2 layers of 3/4 inch zebrawood, cut at a 20 degree angle. I think it turned out nice.

I'll be at the annual Klingspors Woodworking Extravaganza teaching on Oct 23rd and 24th

Walnut and maple with some oak inside with a spaulted  birch finial. Mistakes were made. A couple angles on the stave cuts were not perfect which made a couple inlayed leaves off to the side. But for a first try I thought it was kind of neat.

https://youtu.be/d82qcoy3FcQ?is=Dadhx9VHeY6LJKRR

https://youtu.be/OOBwmYudhsw?is=XDvQboislJLTQxd9

My parents 50th wedding anniversary is coming up and I wanna make them something special. I recently bought the scroll saw, after lurking here for years. I’ve used lots of saws but never a scroll saw. I have 40 days to complete the project. I am thinking of making it 30 x 90. Is this over ambitious, should I fumble down the template?

I'm new to woodworking overall, and having absolute fits trying to figure out why I can’t even do beginner exercises. If I could pick this thing up, I might just put it out the window at this point.

I realize that practice and technique are important, but I could use some help figuring out if I've just set something up so badly that practice isn't even relevant, or is this just not a good machine for a beginner. Apologies for the length, I wrote down everything I thought might be useful.

Specifics: Second-hand saw, 15" Delta 40-150.

Manual, except mine lacks the chip blower assembly: https://www.mikestools.com/ownersmanuals/DeltaScrollSaws/40-150.pdf

It came bolted solidly to a 2x8 shelf, which I've set on a rubber mat, clamped once in the front to a 2x4 under my workbench and then to a stud on the wall of my shop. I've cleaned off all the old pitch and sawdust and oiled moving pieces with machine oil.

I'm using pinned blades, and I've tried 5-6 different types/numbers so far on various scrap materials. When tensioning, I can heard the difference between the dull thud and a ping, but can't hear pitch to know if its the right 'note'. The blades are mounted with the teeth facing forward and down.

When turned on, it loudly hums/vibrates the bench. I've heard them described as 'a slightly loud sewing machine', I'd say this is definitely louder than that but not intolerably so. There are no speed options, its just on or off.

The second I touch any material to the blade, it goes from crabby-sewing-machine to velociraptor with a toothache. I'm wearing the same electronic hearing protection I wear to the range and it's still painful to be in the room with it. It's hard to be enthusiastic about practicing when there's a banshee screaming in front of you.

I've tried basswood blocks, 1/2" soft pine boards, 1/4" MDF, 1/2" walnut, and 3/4 plywood. Weirdly, my best success was the plywood.

Every blade I've tried winds up with the temper destroyed in minutes, no matter how slowly I try and let the machine cut. It also takes every bit of my strength to hold the pieces to the table, or it tries to fling them through the ceiling. I'd feel safer using a tablesaw blindfolded.

What else can I look at, or try, to make this useable? If the answer is just that I'm bad at it, then what's the most recommended material to practice on?

This fox was a little project to get back into the intarsia mindset. It's roughly 8.5" tall by 6" wide at the base. It is made from 3/4" padauk, bloodwood, cherry, ash, and wenge

After putting it together I kinda dont like the black background, what do you think would look best. Also the rocks for earth bending, color them brown or green?

Been scrolling flat patterns, ornaments, that kind of thing since about 2023. Got comfortable enough with tight curves and stack cutting that I figured a 3D compound project would just be a natural next step. Picked a standing horse pattern that uses two intersecting blanks cut at 90 degrees to each other, the kind where you cut the side profile first, tape the waste pieces back on, then flip the blank and cut the front profile through all of it.

First mistake was wood choice. I grabbed a piece of 2 inch thick basswood because it's what I had on hand, not realizing how much harder it is to keep a blade tracking straight through that much material compared to the quarter inch stuff I'm used to. Blade drift on the second cut was way more noticeable than I expected, probably because the first set of cuts changes how the wood supports itself as you're feeding it through.

Taping the cutoff pieces back on with painter's tape worked fine for the first animal but I had one section snap loose mid cut on the second attempt and it grabbed the blade for a second. Nothing broke but it scared me enough that I started using a thin bead of hot glue at the corners in addition to tape for anything over an inch and a half thick.

Sanding these things is its own project entirely. Flat fretwork you can mostly handle with a sheet on a flat surface, but the compound curves meant I ended up hand sanding with foam backed pads for probably three hours just on one horse to get rid of the saw marks without rounding over details I wanted to keep sharp.

Ended up with two decent horses out of four attempts, which I'm counting as a win for a first try. Curious if anyone running two speed saws found a sweet spot for feed rate on thicker stock, mine's a 16 inch and I was running it faster than I probably should have out of impatience.

https://youtu.be/9RxTsYdisKs?is=OQ0smhkGk5HrneVM

My current scroll saw decided to snap on the wedges that control the tension on the blade. I use a scroll saw almost every day so looking to get something that will last me a while and good quality. What should I get?

This is 3/4 inch walnut, filled with epoxy, and then covered with glass shards.

Did a quick project for my in-laws to replace an old worn out sign they had.