I'm installing the windshield soon, but I also want to paint the car soon. So I dont want to put the trim on right now. However I want the windshield on so i can drive it in the mean time before i paint

My engine bay is super clean and I don’t want to take the time to prep the area, weld in a new nut, and grind it smooth as well as repaint.

Instead I cut up some scrap metal with a hole big enough for a rivnut and 2 holes for pop rivets.

The rivets will hold the nut in place when a bolt is being tightened to it.

I made sure to place it such that the pop rivets sit inside the channel of the hinge so they do not interfere with the mating surface.

My work in progress!

This isn't the usual which should my car have or anything, more of should I convert it.

I pulled timing cover knowing I need to do a timing set. I know my car uses a one piece currently. My stock fuel pump eccentric has some decent grooves in it, and while it was working fine before, I like to fix things when I can before they become a problem.

Knowing how the two piece works, it seems like it'd be less prone to friction problems.

I know some people have pointed out problems because of the pin being too long with the 2 piece. Does this mean that simply having a cam gear setup to be used with a one piece, and that the proper pin length wouldn help, or is it going to be a fight as to whether the timing cover is deep enough?

A replacement fuel pump eccentric from Ford racing goes from like 140-180, but I could get a decent timing set and two piece eccentric that would probably have less wear issues for cheaper than that.

I'm not super concerned with originality in that regard, however if it's likely I'd have to replace timing cover (and potentially have problems that stem from that).. maybe it wouldn't be worthwhile.

Before and after

Got some "MEATY" BFG'S put on the rear...

Taught my son ALL the ins and outs. Started with a hulk. Finished with 351C, 4-speed driver. 3 years part-time.

In talking to other owners, the overwhelming percentage has owned several different Mustangs thru the years.

What is your favorite Classic Mustang that you have owned? What makes it your favorite,

Anyone know where I can find the a/c line that runs to the evaporator to the compressor for a 68 mustang 289? Tried Googling it but can’t find it anywhere for sale.

I put in aftermarket seats and I think they’re a little higher than stock. I’m putting in the headliner rn but the way it’s looking is that it feels very close to my head.

The bows all face upward and l currently have the front stretched and held in place by windlace. When I sit in the car, it just feels really cramped. I can feel with my hand that there’s a lot of space between the fabric and roof of the car.

Is this normal or did I probably mess something up?

I'm getting ready to pull my motor (1965 fastback) within the next couple of weeks to start working on some major upgrades that need to be done. While the engine is out, I plan to repaint the block, repaint the doghouse, repaint the underside of the hood (or maybe do something else with it), and change out various hoses. I may also switch out the distributor cap and wires, valve covers, and engine cleaner, too. I'm basically trying to make the engine compartment look better, but I'm struggling to decide what my ultimate "vision" is for it. Can't decide if I want to go all black and chrome or keep the block Ford blue and work with a blue/black theme.

Show me your engine compartments. I need some inspiration! Included is a recent-ish photo of my engine compartment for reference.

Anything I should know about 66 Mustang 289?

I usually buy my stuff off NPD but their cheapest one would be $600 total because of their crazy shipping as opposed to $300 total from OER/Summit.

Does anyone have any experience mounting a terminator x box and routing the wires for it in a 68 coupe? Putting in a 351w and trying to put injection on it but haven’t heard any word on the mounting and cable routing.

So I found this today (admittedly suspected it). Curious what a chain this looks might do for how it runs etc

The car is NOT THE numbers matching garage queen I thought i was getting.

So im going to have fun with it.

Had a buddy try something different and I love how it came out

My brother has run out of energy and money on his 67. I was going to help him with restoration since he knows a lot more than I do about it, but he is giving up. Unfortunately I let him park it in my driveway when he lost his storage. He lives in a townhouse. I am trying to decide whether to buy it from him and find a shop to get it drivable. 289 V8. Block is still in car but top end is off and in pieces. Auto transmission in unknown condition. He has owned it for 35 years and drove it for 10 but it has been stored for 25 years until last year. Driver side pan is rusted.. Some surface rust. Interior needs to be redone.

The question - I can afford to sink money into the car but I can't do the work myself. I don't know enough and I am in my 80's. My guess is that our best bet is to sell it to someone who will do the work because paying someone else is an uneconomical bet. Opinions?

So tried something different, thrilled with the results!

Removed both leaf springs at once because as usual not a single video I watched mentioned anything about doing one side at a time until AFTER I did it.

The pumpkin has been supported by a jack the whole time but it did roll slightly forward on the pad and at one point I did press down lightly on the driver side wheel by accident.

Other than making installation of the new springs harder for no reason, is there anything I could have potentially misaligned or need to check before I walk away?