Hi all,

The six speakers in the premium trim actually sound decent. It's just that I'm sure that the head unit is capable of doing much better than the speakers allow. I've checked with Subaru dealers and headquarters and even they don't list what speakers are actually in the car. I even checked with Cruchfield and even they didn't have a clue about the size of the speakers. The 2027 is just too new to have been analyzed by them.

The biggest mystery are the dash speakers. So I decided to take a peek and this what I found. They're paper and the opening will definitely allow 3.5 speakers that aren't too high or too deep to fit in here. The opening might even accommodate up to 4 inches.

It’s an suv so I made it easily removable no tools required for the connections. Amp rack is mounted and isolated from the sub enclosure. Bass knob goes to a rj11 inline coupler, the LC2i pro input wires are on a deutsch connector, and the power and ground use the recoil power connection.

A recent video by a car audio professional explains some things people may be wasting their money on (with focus on SQ), and I thought it was interesting to share. There is English audio track on the video, but I thought I'd summarize.

1. Power. Watts is mainly just marketing to present a number that is bigger and therefore better. It does not say how nice or even loud the speaker actually is: a 50W speaker can be louder than a 200W one. What you should consider instead is sensitivity, while high power rating usually means more mass and less sensitivity. Also consider the ohms and different power measurement standards.

2. Expensive cabling. Expensive audiophile cabling is nonsense. Cabling should be three things: made of copper, as thick as feasible, and as short as feasible.

3. Capacitors. Mostly a relic from the era when cars didn't have good alternators or good cabling. They serve little use in the era of vehicles with start-stop - if they ever did.

4. Buying an powerful and expensive subwoofer element to factory or other small enclosure. The enclosure has to be a match for the element or it's not going to sound correct nor powerful.

5. More speakers being better than. Like with watts, the speaker numbers in luxury cars have experienced inflation. In reality more speakers make it exponentially harder to tune the sound correctly, while generally really people can get everything they need from a 3-way front with rears/sub.

6. Buying components by the principle of higher price = better than. Talked about a case when a customer brought super high end Brax midbasses to be installed, once they were they sounded accurate and great to the installers, but the customer thought they were weak and no better than what was there before. People just have completely different expectations between themselves, but whatever they are, they expect higher price to mean it matches these better.

7. Buying speakers without thinking about installation first. Never mind they should fit, but new speakers, especially midbasses require soundproofing to sound right. Shouldn't also get the polarity wrong with the wiring.

8. Replacing components instead of tuning. Tuning alone makes way more difference than swapping components does. Should only change components when you firmly and precisely know why you are doing that.

9. Putting all the money in one type of component, such as speakers, and too little or none to others such as the amps or DSP. Speakers really are the most important component, but pairing 3000 dollar kits with 30 dollar amp also likely produces disappointment

10. Buying components without understanding the final goal. Think and just tell the installers (or the AI) what you want from the system, so they can choose the right components and work towards that.

The zeroeth might be wasting big bucks on rear speakers, but that's just me.

Testing fullrange with only 4.90vrms from my jbox iii. I also measured it nearfield with basically 0.50 down to 0.050 THD in REW from 150hz-20khz.

note measurement only on free air. sounds pretty good already playinf fullrange in free air. can be used a a midrange in a active 3way set up since its cheap

So, I'm an older guy, don't necessarily need this. The car is shifting with a small lag when you are starting from a dead stop and I'm wondering if it's drawing enough to mess with the electronic transmission? It's an 06 Lexus ES330 and I just picked it up, 90,000 miles. Does it cut power to the amp and the sub if I just turn the radio off from the power button? Also, how hard is it to just remove the sub and amp? I've never done anything with these type of components before. I might just want the trunk space back, so if I disconnect it would I just have the standard radio? I'm going to replace the stock head unit with a modern one, do having these added effect that? Finally, if I pull these and sell them on Marketplace, what should I ask? Thanks!

I have a Pioneer SPH-DA77DAB to power my FOSI CA30 amp, but this is not the topic today: i was interested in buying a park/back up camera and maybe one for the front (i have a miata and because of that it's sometimes difficult to park It properly because of its long front or high back) but the problem is that there are SO MANY cameras to choose from but seems the are mostly chinese sh1t... I found that reputable companies like Pioneer or Alpine make them but they are CONSIDERABLY more expensive (like 100+€ instead of 20-40€).

So, is it worth spending the money (like 200 for a front and back) or idk maybe there are some underground outliers that are cheap but good?

Thanks.

I installed soundskins pro foam in my doors because I ordered for another project and never used it but I'm looking to do my roof because when it rains its so freaking loud in my Mazda cx-5 I'm also doing an high end audio install as well.

I have a 12-in kicker and a Jensen DSP amp that's 240 w. My sub won't make any noise unless the bass boost is on and I barely turn it up in the sub will cut out

The system will run off of the oem head unit so as not to lose any features that come with the car. I bought a wire harness from Crutchfield to get the front signal wires to work with, since I'm building a front stage SQ system. Listening to the front and rear speakers using the fader, it's clear that the bass signal is louder in the front speakers, so I used it to connect to the LC2i. I have the Dayton Audio 408 DSP and the Epicenter Micro. I'll probably get the AudioControl EPICSIX to power those drivers and add another 12" Pioneer sub and amp that's been sitting since I bought them in 2000. Right now I'm waiting to buy the EPICSIX amp before building the amp rack, but I'm going to run the Epicenter Micro's ACR4 to the front as well as the wired remote for the DSP. Not forgetting the installation of the 8" EPIC PRO 8X's. That'll keep.me busy until..., haha

Are these good speakers for the price? Currently using Recoil Rem65 and powering then 50w RMS, finding the recoils kinda lackluster now.

Would the NVX be better?

Current build:
Front: Recoil Rem65
Sub: JBL Club 1224
Amps: Kenwood 8404 powering the recoils, Kenwood Excelon powering the sub.
HU: Pioneer AVH 8750bt
Budget for new components: $200

Thanks.

Hi everyone,
I have a 2012 BMW 528i F10 with an aftermarket wireless Apple CarPlay MMI module installed. CarPlay is not factory-installed; it was added using a separate module.
It suddenly stopped working for no apparent reason. Whenever I switch from the original BMW iDrive system to CarPlay, the screen turns grey/white. Sometimes it displays “No Signal.”
The original BMW system still works perfectly:
The factory iDrive menu works normally.
Radio and audio work fine.
The issue only occurs when switching to the aftermarket CarPlay system.
Things I’ve tried:
Restarting iDrive by holding the volume/power button for around 30 seconds.
Switching back to the original BMW menu.
Neither fixed the issue.
I haven’t checked whether music from my iPhone still works over Bluetooth.
Has anyone experienced this with an aftermarket MMI module on an F10? Could the module itself have failed, or could it be a problem with the LVDS video connection, power supply, or something else?
Any suggestions on how to diagnose it would be appreciated. Thanks!

Would there be anyone willing to help me figure out what the reverse wire and park sw should be connected to I’m at a bit of a loss thanks

Hi all
I’ve had a Sony XAV-AX3200 installed in my Hyundai iLoad for about a month and it’s been working perfectly until now.
Suddenly, all audio sources (FM radio, Bluetooth, CarPlay) have this really loud, smooth static that sounds like tuning into an empty FM frequency. I can still faintly hear the music underneath, but the static is probably 4x louder.
Fading between left/right or front/rear makes no difference, and I’ve tried a factory reset with no luck.
It’s connected using the standard ISO connectors, no custom wiring or anything. The weird thing is it was working perfectly for a month and then this just happened out of nowhere.

I’ve taken the unit out the dash and checked all wires and plugs, they seem fine, nothing loose. I even tried changing the ground point but same issue.
Has anyone experienced anything similar or have any ideas what might be causing it? I’m wondering if the head unit itself has failed and I’ll have to deal with a warranty process

Cheers

looking to replace the stock speakers in my lady’s car she drives an 01 chevy tracker it has an upgraded head unit i believe it’s a kenwood excelon. very new to the world of car audio systems so im unsure of the ideal setup and tuning. her driver door speaker is blown and im looking to get some plug and play adapters for coax speakers i figure anything is an upgrade compared to her stock speakers but im looking for best bang for buck willing to spend a little more if its really worth the quality ideally $50-100 a speaker closer to $50😅 im currently looking at the kicker cs series anyone have anything to say about them or other recommendations?

Hi all! I’m very new to the CarAV world, so thought I’d post here and see if anyone has any tips.

I have a 2002 Ford Puma Thunder, and currently all the panels have been stripped out as I’m getting the arches treated for rust, and I thought while I’m here, I’ll try get the sound deadening done! My only problem being, I have zero clue what I’m doing.

I come from the home Hi-Fi world, so I’m decently understanding of speakers, amps, sub boxes, etc, but I have zero understanding of how to sound deaden, I’ve watched some video, but I’m still not entirely sure what materials to use, as there’s a LOT of different brands,
Materials, weight etc going around, so was hoping someone here could help me out.

I am in the UK and ideally don’t want to spend more than 200 (ideally 150 or lower) on the materials. Thank you everyone who takes the time to respond, cheers!

I got some attention on the port on the last post so I took it out and did some research. This should sound awesome!!!

Hi everyone,

​I'm using a 10.26" Podofo screen with Android Auto wireless (phone: Samsung Galaxy S22), but it randomly disconnects during trips/driving.

​Here is what I've noticed / checked so far:

​Battery optimization for Android Auto is already turned off.

​Disconnections seem to happen randomly while driving.

​Power source is connected to the standard 12V cigarette lighter outlet.

​Has anyone experienced similar Wi-Fi dropouts with these 10.26" screens? Could it be a Wi-Fi frequency conflict (5GHz vs 2.4GHz) or voltage fluctuations? Any tips or setting tweaks on either the phone or the Podofo screen to improve stability?

​Thanks!

I just installed the alternator in my fiesta it’s a 240 amp. I noticed it came with a different plug connecter instead of one that fits the oem connector. Was wondering if anyone else that upgraded their alternator in a fiesta ran into a similar issue.
Alternator is from autotech engineering.
Blue wire into the positive terminal on alternator and the yellow/red wire into a fuse.
Car charges at 14.7v and car will want to shutoff and battery light stays on.

Getting a sound system installed soon and was curious what things I should consider? According to my audio tech he said I’ll need a 300+ alternator for the system I’m getting put in. I don’t wanna bug him with a million questions so figured I’d ask here.

Do I need a new special battery? New battery wiring? Anything else?

Hi folks,

The title says it all. This appeared after I had my subwoofer professionally installed. I know the big red wire goes to the subwoofer amp, and I’m guessing the black wire above it is the main vehicle accessory power. But what’s the little black wire on the top left of the box? Some explanation of this device would be great to help me get my bearings.

Most importantly, where/how would I attach a new positive wire for a new amplifier for the rest of my speakers? I know a new wire would need its own fuse. I’ve installed a new HU and speakers myself, but I’m still a newb when it comes to all this circuitry stuff and this would be the first time I’ve ever attached something new to the battery myself.

Thanks so much!!!

The stock system is terrible. I replaced the front door and dash speakers with JL Audio components, and added a Kicker Key 200.4. Much better than it was. But I'd like something to fill out the low end (not something to announce to the neighborhood that I'm here) for the music I like (rock, jazz, reggae, blues). I just learned about spare tired subwoofers and ordered one. I was disappointed to realize that my spare tire does not fit inverted in my trunk (car is AWD) so sent that unit back.

Here are the two options I am considering -
-a molded 10" subwoofer enclosure that fits in the cubby hole on the side of the trunk (would need to get a mono amp as well):
https://nvx.com/products/2018-and-up-toyota-camry-custom-500w-rms-10-loaded-subwoofer-enclosure-nvx-be-toycam-g8?srsltid=AU7gw4X7b6PfAj8D9ZYCepRZfc_-9xhyeCGy9e9qPHvBaT1-

-a self-contained powered 8" or 10" subwoofer - there are so many of these to choose from

It does not seem like many of the "under seat" subwoofers will actually fit under the driver or passenger seat of my Camry without getting damaged. I wonder if mounting it to the back of the rear fold down seat will reduce its sonic impact.

Again, I'm not looking to turn heads with rumbling bass, just looking to fill out the missing low end of my music, without taking up a lot of cargo space.

I know that I need a line out converter with a bass restoration feature given that the factory head unit rolls off the bass with increased volume.

Thanks for any input.