Fabric is 40D silnylon, eyelet was installed with the corresponding pliers

Any ideas on how to solve this ? I've thought about putting some superglue before pressing the eyelet but it doesn't adhere to the fabric really well

Handstiched ikea project (3 bags) for winter touring. Mounts on external frame and fastens with rope. Only tested 20kgs.

The hook side seems to be all one single piece of plastic. It is not dual lock by 3M.

I've been lurking on r/myog for 3 years now and have learned so much, so wanted to finally post this pack I've been making lately. It's a single fabric panel for the main bag, and has self-binding edges, which works with lighter pack fabrics that don't fray much (I used ECOPAK and X-Pac for these bags). I know there's trade-offs to that design choice, but it works for certain bags like these and makes binding so much easier, as binding is the part of bagmaking I dislike the most.

There's a printable PDF pattern and tutorial available at https://thirdplacethreads.com/u/Coomer/single-panel-self-binding-hip-pack, which is a site I built for people to share their projects. No registration or anything is required, but folks are welcome to join and share/document their sewing journey if they want.

It's the first pattern and longer tutorial I've made, so let me know what you think. I have a few more cool designs I want to share soon. Cheers!

I have a CORTECH Super 2.0 18L Tank Bag, it has magnetic flaps and sticks to metallic tank, it has a pocket where the shoulder straps get hidden/tucked away.

At the bottom (circled in red ) are 2 plastic D Rings that the shoulder straps hook into.

I want to add 2 more such D Rings to the top (circled in yellow).

This way I can use the bag as a tail bag using tie down strap that hook into the D Rings and then tie into the bikes grab rail etc. I can then also use the bag with Tank Vest on bikes that have plastic tanks.

I am lookign at suggestion on how to add those D Rings. The Tank bag cant be laid flats and has rigid sides , so machine sewing is out of the question. There will be a lot of lateral / pull dynamic stress on the D Rings.

Options I have considered (but not yet implemented):

1) D Rings with sticky base that are used on Kayaks etc and then maybe reinforced by hand stitching.

2) 2 D Rings on opposite end Nylon strap, strap hand sewed into the base of the bag. Base is soft.

3) Use Plastic Rivets to rivet the Nylon Strap to the base of the bag instead of sewing.

Looking for suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Just recently got my very first sewing machine (Singer HD 8832) after wanting one for years and years. After making a couple obligatory burrito pillowcases I made these two little bags to hold my sewing supplies. Far from perfect but learned a lot making them for sure. Having fun so far!

I welcome any recommendations on patterns to try, particularly bags! Once I feel comfortable enough I'd like to get some Cordura to make messenger/sling type bags with

Just got this Arc’teryx Patrol Vest for my use as a patroller, but I love the idea of a vest and i’d ideally like to make the cross removable so I can use the vest for days where i’m not patrolling too.

I was considering seam ripping the cross and putting velcro on the back, but then i’m not sure how i’d go about sewing on velcro to the back of the pack without losing use of the pocket it’s sewn to. Would this be something that’s best suited to hand-sewing? Or does anyone have an idea of how to remove the whole panel, add the velcro, and then sew it back on?

Any ideas or tricks are appreciated!

These are pictures of the updated version of my backpack.

I changed some details on the pattern and improved how the lining is attached to the outer fabric.

Also for the first time, I added some leather to this design for a more "traditional" look.

Total weight is around 385gr.

Does anyone with a Juki Lk1900 have access to a 1x1 or 1.5x1.5” (25x25 or 38x38mm) box stitch pattern in .vdt format? Apparently new patterns have to be programmed in juki’s PM-1 software and I don’t currently have access to that. Willing to provide compensation.

Hi again - Curious if anyone can enlighten me on a conundrum I have on my UQ build. How do I implement a differential plan to achieve correct geometry for my baffles? In other words this calculator works for the inner shell but doesn’t seem to account for the outer shells needed size to accomplish proper calculated lofting? It shows a wider width but doesn’t calculate the spacing. My ideal spacing for my 9 baffles is about 5 7/8” inches apart on the inner shell but the calculator doesn’t calculate the outer shell spacing. I suspect 9 isn’t enough channels and I will have to adjust to 10 to hit the sweet spot of 4-5 inches apart.

Thanks in advance.

I'm looking at a couple of bartacking machines and am a bit lost as to where to start and what I would need. I'm making bicycle bags and frequently need to bartack webbing onto X-Pac RX30 / VS21, it's becoming a pain to do them as zigzags on a domestic sewing machine, it takes a long time and the domestic is starting to struggle with it a bit.

That said, I'm looking at a couple of options:

• A used Juki LK-1900A-SS, it's in a pretty good state, the table's a bit rough but mechanically it's looking solid
• Brand new Jack JK-T1900GS
• Brand new Jack JK-T1900GH

From what I've gathered, the Juki and Jack T1900GS are made for lighter fabrics, not necessarily webbing, and they take DPx5 needles, size #16.

GH takes DPx17 needles, and apparently is more apt for bartacking chunkier stacks of webbing / fabric.

Would I be better off getting a T1900GH and have some room to grow in case I ever need to bartack something even thicker, or would the Juki, or 1900GS suffice?

Like the title says, I'm new to the MYOG community and I'd like to design a tote for my MTB gear similar to this Kitworks 55L tote with a couple compartments to separate my helmet from dirty shoes, kneepads, etc. A search turned up the following for materials:

The Kitworks Gear 55L Tote is made from a 100% recycled 900D polyester ripstop face fabric with a durable TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) laminate. It features RF-welded waterproof seams and a molded EVA foam and TPU-laminated base.

I don't need a TPU laminate like this one uses, but I would like to have some structure and durability to the walls and base. Would some EVA foam sandwiched between the exterior and lining material be the best choice here, or would a stiff Peltex interfacing be sufficient with the right exterior material choice?

Speaking of the exterior material, should I use something like X-PAC VX21, a 210D Venom Gridstop or some Cordura?

Any and all input would be appreciated!

Just finished a mid sized Messenger bag adapted from a known blueprint...

Made with white vinyl ad banner recycled with blue accent and blue and yellow inside

Still some things i'd like to correct for futur versions

Let me know what you think about it

Cheers :)

Has anyone ever hand sewn on additional tie outs on a tarp? I need to add roughly 4 tie outs along the edge of a sea to summit tarp and I’m looking for any tips or recommendations for doing this? How should I reinforce the tie outs?

Used to sew gear way back in the day, 20 years ago with a sailrite but sold it. Had some ideas, and wanted to get in to some aviation upholstery and MYOG. Juki LU-2828V-7 arrived about a week ago. Absolute work-horse, excited to start working on some ideas but damn am I rusty.

In picture is just a 6x6x12 pouch I made for some day-trip backup clothes. It's terrible but was fun to re-learn a bit.

I'm ideating a lightweight climbing pack and have been thinking about the shoulder straps. I have a couple expedition duffels from Patagonia and BD with removeable straps that buckle at the bottom and attach at the top by slotting a tri-glide into a D-ring (see photo 4 on the Black Hole)

With this style of strap, they could be removed on-route to use the pack as a mini-haul bag, and there would be less stuff on the outside to snag on when stuffing this bag in a larger pack.

The primary con I see to this style is that buckle becomes a weak point in the strap and could break in a harsh fall, sending the pack into the void.

Are there other reasons we don't see this style of shoulder strap used on packs besides expedition duffels?

Hi everyone!
I'm designing a Hike and Fly backpack for a friend (hike and fly as in hike up the mountain and fly down with your paraglider).
I have some design constraints:
-Lightweight: less than 650g
-Resistence to abrasion: usually backpacks are thrown on the ground for unpacking
-Rollability: it has to be rollable to stow it away in the harness
-Comfort: since hikes are usually one hour plus it has to be decently comfortable with 15kg load

I opted for a light textile webbing (20mm width 10g per metre) for the frame (with 2 lines on all sides forming a net) and a Robic 210den (165g per m2) for the underside (10cm tall) and two strips on the back side (to have some more resistance to attach the shoulder straps) and for the rest a Robic 70den (100g per m2). it will have a very long frontal opening and i'm thinking of a 8 or 10 YKK coil zipper.
for the shoulder and lumbar support i'm thinking of EV50 foam in 4mm thickness.

I have calculated about 550g (with all hardware and misc) so i have like 100g to spare for other things or miscalculations.

I'm loosely copying the design in the pic.
What do you think of my fabric and design choices?