Hi, simple details, car is from 2008. 93000km and was apparently serviced, had has this noise in the video when in cold and when warm, otherwise on first start up there is no big Rattle like it would do on loose chain but this persistent noise is bugging me. What could it be?

Hi, I have a 2011 Toyota Aygo. I’m trying to program a key fob so I can use it to lock and unlock the doors, but so far I haven’t had any success. Does anyone here have experience with this?

The instructions I’m using come from a forum. maybe iam doing something wrong

\[https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/tutorials/article/53-reprogramming-2009-2013-aygo-central-locking-key-buttons/?fbclid=IwY2xjawVGwJJleHRuA2FlbQIxMABwZG9mAWJyaWQRME81YmF6MmRjcWV5OWhYQWlzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEecoXtL0MxgFvL96CIs7gbhsMaeFERerHkcKhk-QkjOE62Wfu6Tq8Y3-w1tbU\\\\\\_aem\\\\\\_zoPuBDaNYXFN\\\\\\_vmt7QYtIQ\\\](https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/tutorials/article/53-reprogramming-2009-2013-aygo-central-locking-key-buttons/?fbclid=IwY2xjawVGwJJleHRuA2FlbQIxMABwZG9mAWJyaWQRME81YmF6MmRjcWV5OWhYQWlzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEecoXtL0MxgFvL96CIs7gbhsMaeFERerHkcKhk-QkjOE62Wfu6Tq8Y3-w1tbU\\_aem\\_zoPuBDaNYXFN\\_vmt7QYtIQ)

\[https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B07JKXKW8Z?ref=ppx\\\\\\_yo2ov\\\\\\_dt\\\\\\_b\\\\\\_fed\\\\\\_asin\\\\\\_title&fbclid=IwY2xjawVGwJxleHRuA2FlbQIxMABwZG9mAWJyaWQRME81YmF6MmRjcWV5OWhYQWlzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEenB7cjAk6cfbO\\\\\\_PwFq-GccZcUz5sNJSR7-Itxowg4Zhg7rULQDXpa63J7c0Y\\\\\\_aem\\\\\\_VNtoKefe5J0505pd2VgT6A\\\](https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B07JKXKW8Z?ref=ppx\\_yo2ov\\_dt\\_b\\_fed\\_asin\\_title&fbclid=IwY2xjawVGwJxleHRuA2FlbQIxMABwZG9mAWJyaWQRME81YmF6MmRjcWV5OWhYQWlzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEenB7cjAk6cfbO\\_PwFq-GccZcUz5sNJSR7-Itxowg4Zhg7rULQDXpa63J7c0Y\\_aem\\_VNtoKefe5J0505pd2VgT6A)

Hi all, as we all know winter months are here and windscreens are misting like crazy, just wondering if anyone had any tips for de misting my screen quicker as I’m finding it can be very slow, thank you👍

Got my car last year and during its MOT this year I received the additional advisories. The mechanic said its best to sell it off next year before there are holes in these. Photos are of the back subframe and around the rustic area. Front looks similar too but I didnt take any photos. They said in total I can look at £1200 in total for all the rusty parts. How long do I have until these will give in ? I live in Scotland and park the car outside so its exposed to the weather. I am hoping it can hold it together for at least until the next MOT in June. Is there anything I can do to slow down and reduce the damage ? Thanks

Update 23/10/2026 - Will give Lanoguard a try and let you all know how I get on. Will be useful for any new drivers in the same boat as me. Thanks all for everyone's advice also.

Hi all,

Car has done 55k miles and the clutch was replaced at 50k.

Although the mileage is relatively low, most of it has been inner-city driving, so it’s had its fair share of stop-start driving and wear and tear.

Over the last week, I’ve noticed that when I get in, put it into first gear and try to pull away, it sometimes feels like it’s still in neutral and the car won’t move. If I put it back into neutral and try first gear again a few times, or select second and then go back into first, it seems to resolve the issue, nothing feels stiff or loose either.

Once I’m moving, everything seems fine, and I haven’t noticed any problems with the other gears.

Before booking it into a garage, does anyone have any ideas what the likely cause could be? Is there anything simple I could check or try myself first?

Thanks in advance!

hi everyone,

i have just bought a very cheap peugeot 107 as my next car and i have bought it with an issue.

it is getting delivered to me next week, but currently it has been described to me as not being able to go into second gear , needing to select reverse before you are able to select 1st and not being able to come back out of 5th gear unless you are stationary.

now i know clutches are a weak point on these cars and im fully prepared to put a new clutch, clutch cable, gear selector cables and a 2nd hand gearbox if needs be.

i was just wondering if anyone else has experienced the same issue or similar and what i can do to diagnose the issue before taking the box out, as it would be ideal not to have to spend on all of those parts if not required.

with it not being in every gear i cant see it being a clutch issue but i might be wrong and someone with more experience on these cars than me might know better than i do.

obviously if i need to go down the second hand box route id do a new clutch anyway.

cheers!

Specifically in a 2006 Citroen C1 (1st gen, phase 1, vibe, basic first model!)

The seat belt stalk broke, the metal snapped at the base. I'm not using the passenger seats (took them out to build a bed in the car lol) so I removed the seat belt stalk and plastic thing the buckle clips into. I got my mechanic to bolt this stalk where the broken drivers one was.

But only the driver's side has this electrical wire, which I know controls the "beep beep no seat belt on" because he managed to jam the electric bit in. Then I drove off round the corner (no seatbelt beep) and looked down and it was hanging out, I barely touched it and it came out, so wasn't in secure. It didn't seem like it should fit in the hole lol like the opening isn't wide enough.

So for now, I turned off the seatbelt alarm. It still has a flashing warning light but I can live with that.

I'm just wanting to find out if the wire going into the drivers seatbelt receiver, is simply for the seatbelt alarm, or if it also forms the pretensioner circuit, or anything else important!

Thank you 🙏🏼

I recently bought a Peugeot 107 from 2012 with a broken rear window defrost, the original has 2 working lines but the rest are damaged. Tried a used replacement from a scrapyard but it didn't work at all, got a warranty replacement that also failed. My girlfriend's 2011 Aygo has the exact same problem. I don't see this mentioned much online, but I've noticed scrapyards are selling multiple tested rear windows with defective defrost lines. What could be causing this?

Hi all,

Its been a year since my 107 had an oil change and the oil light flashed briefly towards the end of a long drive this week.

The dipstick showed a very low reading (although i find it a bad one to read accurately) so I topped it up with the recommended oil. Drive home was 65 miles of motorway and steep country hills but had no warning lights come on and the engine pulled and sounded perfectly fine. Therefore im hoping I caught the issue in time?

Had the little gem for 8 years now and just passed 80k miles on the clock. For a city car she does amazing for such a horrible drive each week!

edit: a bird has just done a poo on me so im considering that as my punishment for neglecting to check the oil

Aygo biting point
Hey everyone,

I’m looking for some advice (or just some reassurance). I've been doing my driving lessons in my instructor's Toyota Aygo, and I am seriously struggling with the clutch control.

The biggest issue is that the biting point is incredibly high. It feels like I have to lift my foot almost entirely off the pedal before anything happens. Because the travel is so long and the pedal is feather-light, I keep over-revving the engine or stalling completely because the actual "bite zone" feels so narrow.

On top of that, because the Aygo has a tiny 1.0L engine, it has practically zero torque at low revs. If I don't give it enough gas before lifting the clutch, it just instantly dies.For those who have learned in or own a city bug (Aygo/C1/107), how did you build muscle memory for this?

Hi there

I’ve been terrorised by a cold start tick that disappears after 60 seconds of driving but if left idling it’ll go quieter after 3-5 minutes,

, having a valve clearance done, on intake side cylinder 3 one tappet was looser than manufacture spec, and the one next to it on intake side is tighter than spec, mechanic said to leave it as it’ll last the life of the car, is this a smart decision? He did not provide measurements

The car only has 26k miles and he said it definitely came that way from the factory it has solid shimless bucket tappets, I’m worried it’ll eat a cam lobe

Please see attached video of noise

Am I right to leave it? T

Say hi bessie! She is a 2016 toyota aygo in yellow and black. She is a the product of a colaboration between Pathé (a cinema concern) and toyota.

Hey everyone,

I recently passed my driving test and managed to get myself a 2010 Peugeot 107. It needs new tyres to pass its MOT, as the current ones are getting quite bald! 😂

Since I’m replacing them anyway, I’d like to upgrade to slightly wider tyres because the stock ones look a bit thin. I'm thinking of going from the standard 155/65/R14 to 175/60/R14.

Has anyone done this, and is it a direct, safe fit on the standard 14" steel wheels? Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

would it work on CityBugs interior? 🤔

Toyota aygo 1.0 2008/2009

Goedenavond allemaal.

Ik zeg alvast sorry voor me spelling en sorry voor eventuele onduidelijkheden. Het is laat en ik heb elke dag overgewerkt.:)

Ter informatie ik ben zelf 2e monteur in dienst met ongeveer 5 a 6 jaar ervaring mocht het technisch worden

Zelf heb ik wegens de kosten een Toyota aygo met het kenteken pz-218-z.

De achteruit rij verlichting werkt niet meer bij mij Aygo en uiteraard is de apk over minder dan 10 dagen.

Nu heb ik alles wel zo beetje door gemeten en is de conclusie:

Er komt 2,6 volt aan op de achteruitrij schakelaar (rood zwarte draad.)

Zodra ik hem schakel trekt die hem ook netjes naar 0 volt dus dat is oke.

De zekering als ik het goed heb is een 10 amp waarbij er allebij 12volt op staat.

De lamp krijgt ook 2.6 volt voeding dus het probleem zit echter tussen de zekerings kast en de Schakelaar.

Heeft iemand alsjeblieft een schakel diagram van de zekeringkast achter het stuur naar de schakelaar op de versnellings bak....

Ik kan nergens een fatsoenlijke diagram vinden helaas..

Ook niet echt op internet alleen van het achterlicht.

Mocht het er wel op staan sorry dan heb ik niet goed gekeken.

Ik wil het graag netjes doen maar ben in staat om de kabel gewoon door te knippen en er een 10 amp zekering met kabel direct van de accu te pakken:/

Mocht iemand een diagram van de pin bezetting hebben dan alvast bij voorbaat dankjewel.

Does anyone know how to replace the HVAC control illumination bulbs in a 2016 Citroën C1, and what type of bulbs they are?

Are they filament bulbs or LEDs, and can they be replaced with LEDs?

hello! I have a question.

I have a Citroën C1 from 2006, it's the Vibe interior version, just bare minimum.

I've noticed that when I used the wiper stalk the way the owners manual instructed to activate rear windshield sprinkler I've heard some humming, but nothing happened on the rear

is there a way I can make it work? or maybe it's actually non-functional?

also, another question: if I have a button for rear windshield heating, and it has a dot, but doesn't work when I press it, does it mean the function is just broken, or is non-existent?

I've attached a pic of the heating button (to the left of hazard lights button)

Just thought I'd share the cosmetic changes I'd made to my CityBug, Cherry.

I have a few more planned, but I'm pretty happy with what I've done so far.

Hey Guys

The Mrs has a 2014 Aygo on 94k miles. She bought it in Jan on 91k and suffered a clutch failure at 92500mi. The release bearing failed and destroyed the pressure plate.

This was sorted under warranty through warrantywise and a new clutch kit was fitted using a local garage. Photos from original failure here https://postimg.cc/gallery/0wSxvtP

Things were fine for a bit but then we noticed juddering when changing gear. Most noticable on a 3rd to second downshift, but also whilst slipping the clutch to set off from a stop in 1st or reverse. There was also a rattle present when the clutch was fully deperesed.

I took it back to the garage that did the work and they were happy to take a look. they found that the clutch cable had a lot of slack in it and they tightened it, but advised that the newly fitted clutch with only ~1400mi on it had worn significantly and the bite was very high. The Bite is right at the top of the pedal. There was no noticeable sliping whilst driving, and she doesnt ride the clutch or rev excessively when setting off.

When the car is cold it is perfect, drives really well and is buttery smooth but as soon as it gets a bit of heat into it, the rattle begins and the clutch gets more juddery. Judder is very bad when it gets heat into it, smooth 3 -> 2nd shifts are very hard to perform even with revmatching. the whole car shakes as soon as the engagement begins. Other gears are juddery too, but this is the worst gear change. It feels like the clutch isnt engaging smoothly and is grabbing and letting go repeatedly.

The garage is going to raise it as a warranty claim with their supplier, but advised that they may not be able to warranty it because a clutch is a wear and tear item and can easily be damaged by poor driving habits. They have raised this though to see what they say.

Im going to remove a rubber bung in the bell housing and get a camera in there tonight to see what i can see.

Am i right in thinking that 1400mi for a new clutch before issues occur is way too early, even if from their understanding a driver could have abused it significantly?

the mrs drives fine, has driven manual for 5 years and hasnt destroyed any clutches on her previous vehicles so i know its not her driving.

I have some videos here:

Judder https://youtube.com/shorts/S_a1a1fqL8Y

Clutch rattle

https://youtube.com/shorts/jak5JxyFgx4

After a replacement washer fluid cap cause mine has somehow broke whilst driving(didn’t notice until I lifted bonnet up for a random check) can anyone recommend a trusted source/site for this kind of thing, also need some LED bulbs as-well for headlights and interior, many thanks!

Hi there, my 2008 C1 passenger seat when driving constantly rattles when going over the slightest bumps and it’s really getting on my nerves

In the video you can see the lightest tap of the passenger seat causes a rattle somewhere, the drivers seat does not do this

I did check the four bolts on the rails and they seem ok, does anyone have any ideas what the cause might be? I appreciate all suggestions, thank you